
Dermatologic Prescriptions and Drug Costs
The prescribing of medications today is very different from the early 1900s, when most medications were compounded on the basis of physicians’ recipes. Currently, hundreds of single-ingredient as well as multiple-ingredient products are available to the dermatologist, both in prescription and over-the-counter forms. The fixed-dose combination products can offer effective alternatives to extemporaneous products compounded by the pharmacist. A wide range of fixed-dose products are now available, many offering comparable therapeutic benefits but at different costs. A major factor to influence price is whether the product is generic or branded. A drug manufacturer has exclusive rights to a compound it develops for the first 17 years after discovery (not market entry, but creation and patenting of the chemical entity). This product will possess a commercial brand name, making it readily identifiable, and a generic chemical name. Only the brand name is available until the patent expires, unless the company signs a licensing agreement with another firm. Once patent expiration occurs, generic forms are manufactured and available to the market. In most states, once a U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved generic product is available, the pharmacist must dispense the less expensive version unless the physician specifically writes “no substitution” or “dispense as written” or checks the appropriate box on the prescription. In most cases, generic products are less expensive than brand-name versions, but the difference can range from as little as pennies to as much as 50% to 80%. The exception to this is insurance arrangements where patients pay a fixed amount (co-pay) per prescription. This price may be less for a generic version or could be the same for all prescriptions. Although generics have to meet FDA specifications to be marketed as equivalent, permissible variations in the vehicle or base may produce alterations in products.
Another essential component of economically prudent prescribing is package size, where larger tubes (60 g) cost less per gram than smaller (15- or 30-g) ones. Although there are books available listing the retail pharmacies’ acquisition costs of medications (Drug Topics Red Book and American Druggist Blue Book), these become outdated quickly because of the twice-yearly price changes from drug manufacturers. The most accurate way to gauge patient cost is to speak to your local pharmacist. The retail marketplace for prescriptions is very competitive, with an average profit on a prescription of approximately 20% (i.e., the pharmacy acquires the drug for $20 and sells it for $24). As a rule, generic drugs cost, on average, 30% to 40% less than brand names. By working closely with neighboring pharmacies and using a consistent selection of prescription products, the pharmacist will be more likely to carry the products you prescribe, often purchasing them in volume and providing them at a lower cost to your patients. Lastly, be sure to write all prescriptions with explicit directions for use, including duration of treatment when applicable. The pharmacist will put this on the medication label, preventing any confusion or errors in patient understanding.

Types of Topical Medications
It is important to note that there are two variables in topical therapy. Both the medication and the vehicle chosen must be appropriate for the condition being treated. In general, acute inflammation is treated with aqueous drying preparations, and chronic inflammation
is treated with greasier, more lubricating compounds (see also
Chap. 40,
Dermatologic Topical Preparations and Vehicles).
I. Powders
Powders promote drying by increasing the effective skin surface area. They are used primarily in intertriginous areas to reduce moisture, maceration, and friction. Powders may be inert or may contain active medications. They may be nonabsorptive, making the skin slippery (talc), or absorptive (cellulose). Absorptive powders may form clumps or small aggregates after absorbing water and can act as irritants.
II. Liquids
Lotions consist of suspensions of a powder in water. Tinctures are alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solutions. As lotions and tinctures evaporate, they cool and dry; lotions leave a uniform film of powder on the skin. Sprays and aerosols act in a similar manner. Active agents are often incorporated into the aqueous phase.
III. Creams and Gels
Creams are semisolid emulsions of oil in water (O/W). As the proportion of oil increases and the proportion of water decreases, the preparation becomes more viscous and at some undefined ratio will no longer be considered a cream, but will enter the classification of ointments. A gel is a transparent and colorless semisolid emulsion that liquifies on contact with the skin, drying as a thin, greaseless, nonocclusive, nonstaining film. Aqueous, acetone, alcohol, or propylene glycol gels of organic polymers such as agar, gelatin, methylcellulose, pectin, and polyethylene glycol are primarily used.
IV. Ointments
These consist of water droplets suspended in the continuous phase of oil (W/O) or of inert bases such as petrolatum. Ointments are of three types: those soluble in water, those that will emulsify with water, and those completely insoluble in water.
V. Pastes
These, which are rarely used today, are mixtures of a powder and an ointment.
VI. Open Wet Dressings
These types of dressings cool and dry through evaporation. They therefore cause vasoconstriction, decreasing the augmented local blood flow present in inflammation. In addition, wet dressings cleanse the skin of exudates, crusts, and debris and help maintain drainage of infected areas. They are indicated in the therapy of acute inflammatory conditions, erosions, and ulcers. Although various medicaments and antibacterial substances may be added for specific causes, water is by far the most important ingredient of wet dressings. Wet dressings covered by an impermeable cover (closed wet dressings) retain heat, prevent evaporation, and cause maceration, which may not be desirable.
VII. Lubricants, Bases, and Protective Coverings
The following preparations are most often used as lubricants, bases in which to incorporate drugs, and protective coverings for the skin:
The oil-in-water creams, which are water washable (“vanishing cream”) and cosmetically pleasing, account for most topical items prescribed.
Water-in-oil emulsions, which are better lubricants than oil-in-water creams, retain heat, impede water loss, increase hydration, and may thereby encourage percutaneous absorption. Because W/O preparations are occlusive, they should be avoided in oozing or infected areas. To provide smooth mixtures, dispersing and emulsifying agents, surfactants, and detergents are usually added to these emulsions.
Lotions and sprays are most easily applied to hirsute areas and scalp.

Amount to Dispense
It will become apparent on long-term patient follow-up that when inadequate amounts of medication are dispensed, the patient will tend to apply too little, will use the drugs less frequently than prescribed, will soon run out of medication, and then may not refill the prescription. If a medication is known to be effective and is to be used on a long-term basis, dispensing large quantities will be more economical and will ensure continuous supply, resulting in better treatment.
One gram of cream will cover an area of skin approximately 10 cm by 10 cm, or approximately 100 sq. cm, assuming a layer 100 μm in thickness. The same amount of ointment will cover an area 5% to 10% larger. Total body self-application of different vehicles was studied in 29 adults and found to average 22 g. Subjects used twice as much medication from a large jar than from a small tube.
Table 39-1 gives conservative figures for the amounts needed for a single application of an ointment or cream and for t.i.d. application for a 2-week period.
The fingertip unit (FTU) is a practical, visually simple means of explaining how much ointment is adequate to cover a specific region. One FTU is the amount of ointment expressed from a tube with a 5-mm-diameter nozzle applied from the distal skin crease to the tip of the index finger, roughly equivalent to 0.5 g. The area of involved skin covered by one flat, closed hand requires approximately 0.5 FTU, or 0.25 g, of ointment. Four hand areas require 2 FTUs, or 1 g, of ointment. Also, the number of ounces of ointment needed for one application per day equals the number of grams needed for a single application.

General Principles of Normal Skin Care
Recommendations for the care of normal skin are based on principles of moderation and common sense as well as on knowledge derived from the study of skin structure and function. Routine daily care is far simpler than one may be led to believe by the profusion of astounding advertising claims. Whereas much is known about adverse reactions to cosmetics and other products for topical use, well-controlled scientific studies related to the care and maintenance of healthy skin are either so limited or so rudimentary that they preclude precise recommendations in most instances. “Normal” skin refers to skin that is not affected by any disease process. Within “normal,” there is obviously a wide variation of skin textures, complexions, and appearances. The principles in this section are applicable to almost everyone within this category, whether the skin is on the “dry” or the “oily” end of the spectrum. The various systems and categorizations of skin types so readily available at cosmetic counters of department stores yield little useful information, are not based on any basic pathophysiologic principles, and are useful primarily for the cosmetic company whose products are subsequently recommended. It is not at all clear that normal skin benefits from much, if anything at all, in the way of specific care, except for protection from harsh chemical and physical agents (especially sunlight). On the other hand, many products used for skin care or cosmetic purposes can occasionally produce adverse reactions, such as allergic and irritant contact dermatitis, phototoxic and photoallergic reactions, and induction of acne (acne cosmetica). Neither price range nor brand name provides absolute assurance that a given product will be of high quality or will not cause adverse reactions. The area of skin care is beset with an amazing number of unsubstantiated claims, “secret” ingredients, and fads. It is beyond the scope of this book to address all of them.
I. Protection
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Changes induced by sunlight are the major factors in causing alterations in the skin that contribute to the appearance of aging. Sunscreens and sunblocking agents can prevent or retard these changes. The more fair the skin, the stronger the indication for a stronger sun-protective agent.
A variety of topical agents can camouflage the appearance of aging or induce transient changes that make the skin look or feel “younger.” For example, mild irritation caused by certain chemicals in “rubefacient” masks accomplishes this by inducing mild erythema and edema. Apart from cosmetic surgical techniques, the same generally applies to remedies for wrinkles and for sagging. Application of tretinoin, adapalene, or tazarotene cream will not prevent aging, but can alter, or “normalize,” keratinization in photodamaged skin and may induce production of new dermal collagen. Wrinkles and dyspigmentation may diminish. α-Hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) may bring about similar changes.
Efforts to protect the skin from harsh chemicals (e.g., strong acids and alkalis) and physical agents (e.g., cold, wind, and extreme dryness) that may damage the skin are also sensible and desirable.
II. Nutrition
The normal epidermis, hair follicles, and nail matrices receive their nutrition from the cutaneous (dermal) vasculature, and there is little evidence that any topically applied “nutrient” can enhance their performance. Except in bona fide nutritional disorders such as avitaminoses (e.g., pellagra), there is no convincing proof that any dietary supplement can enhance skin, hair, or nail growth.
Because the stratum corneum, hair, and nails consist of dead cells, there is no evidence or reason to believe that external application of “protein,” “amino acids,” “collagen,” “elastin,” ribonucleic acid (“RNA”), “nucleic acids,” or the like will have anything more than a transient effect on the appearance or texture of the skin or its appendages.
III. Cleaning the Skin; “Facials”
Soap is not inherently harmful to the skin. Use of cleansing creams instead of soap has no benefits and may induce acneform lesions.
However, excessive washing with water and with soap or detergents can lead to dryness of the skin. Also, exposure to air with low relative humidity in either a warm or cold environment permits a significant degree of moisture loss from the skin.
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The use of a “mild” soap or detergent bar, and a reduction in the number of washings per day (to once, twice, or at most three times) will minimize the drying effects of washing. Recent studies showed that the soap-like cleanser Dove was the least irritating among 18 soaps and detergent bars tested.
The pH of normal skin at its surface is approximately 6.8. Most soaps and shampoos are alkaline. Whereas extremes of acid or alkaline pH may be harmful to hair or skin, no skin care or cosmetic product—even inexpensive ones—achieves such extremes. For the most part, products that claim to be “pH balanced” offer no particular advantage over other products on that score alone.
Facial massage, saunas, mud packs, pore cleaning, “facials,” and so on, may temporarily improve the appearance of the skin but have not been shown to have any long-term beneficial effects other than those that can be attributed to looking and feeling good (which may be substantial).
IV. Astringents; Facial Masks; Clarifiers; Large Pores
“Large pores” can be camouflaged or temporarily altered but cannot be permanently changed or prevented.
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Astringents, also called skin bracers or after-shave lotions in products for men, contain water (as much as 50%) and alcohol or witch hazel. As the alcohol evaporates, it cools the skin, which is interpreted as feeling refreshed.
Clarifiers are meant to act as keratolytics. The lotions may contain resorcinol or salicylates, and the cleansers contain grains that are scrubbing agents. They are meant to thin the stratum corneum to leave the skin rosy and refreshed.
Masks, which may contain an absorbent clay or synthetic resin, form a film that tightens on the skin as it dries. This produces mild irritation and similar effects as noted for astringents.
V. Lubricating the Skin
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Water is the most important plasticizer of the epidermis. Used appropriately, emollients or “moisturizers” can restore water to the skin for a short period or help the skin retain moisture when applied after bathing.
Emollients may make the skin look better or feel more supple transiently, but there is no evidence that aging or wrinkling can be slowed down or prevented by such measures. Furthermore, some emollients can cause or exacerbate acne.
The most effective lubricants are usually the least cosmetically acceptable—petrolatum, mineral and “baby” oil (Albolene or Eucerin). The next most helpful ones are O/W emulsions such as cold creams and Nivea Skin Oil, which contains oils, fatty alcohols, and waxes with emulsifiers and humectants. The least effective but most comfortable ones to use are W/O creams and “moisturizers,” which are principally water along with emulsifiers, colors, fragrances, preservatives, and humectants.
Certain lipids and oils are thought to lubricate the skin by reducing surface friction between lamellae of the stratum corneum. “Humectants” such as lactic acid and urea may enhance the water-bearing capacity of the stratum corneum and hold water in the skin for prolonged times.
A variety of compounds such as aloe, jojoba oil, and vitamin E receive commercial attention as lubricants, for cosmetic use, and as home healing aids. Some have been in use as folk remedies for many years. How they will stand up to rigorous testing remains to be seen. On the other hand, cases of allergic sensitization to such substances have been reported.
VI. Hair Care
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Daily shampooing of normal scalp and hair will not ordinarily cause dryness or other damage and will remove exfoliated skin and debris.
If hair becomes too alkaline, the cuticular cells may become rough and the hair catches and looks dull.
Detergents may be more alkaline than soaps. Sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate are the strongest; laureth sulfate detergents are less alkaline; the amphoterics, which are present in some baby shampoos, are the mildest.
Use of electric rollers, curling irons, hot combs, and exposure to permanent waving solutions can alter and “dry out” hair and make it more brittle. This damage only affects hair that has already grown out of the follicle; hair growth is not altered.
Physical abuses to hair, such as some straightening techniques, and hairstyles that promote prolonged traction on hair can cause follicular scarring and permanent alopecia.
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Acid hair rinses counteract the temporary effects of the alkaline shampoos, smooth down cuticular cells, and reduce swelling of the hair shaft so that the hair looks smooth and shiny.
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Conditioning rinses put an oily coating back on the hair to replace that removed by the shampoo. In addition to ingredients that change the electrical charge, they also contain emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, fragrances, colors, and sometimes an alkali to make the hair swell so that the conditioner can penetrate.
VII. “Hypoallergenic” and “Noncomedogenic”
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“Hypoallergenic” cosmetics are theoretically designed to eliminate the most common and notorious allergy-producing compounds but still contain components allergenic to some individuals. The term hypoallergenic does not necessarily imply that there are fewer antigens present. Any product may legally call itself “hypoallergenic.”
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A long history of problem-free use is no guarantee that a particular product is not the cause of an allergic reaction. It is possible for an individual to become allergic to a compound even if it has been applied to the skin for years without difficulty. Furthermore, manufacturers may change the ingredients in a preparation without concomitant labeling changes.
Persons with suspected allergies to cosmetic ingredients will often benefit from patch testing, so knowledge of sensitivity to particular compounds can help in the choice of alternative products. In some instances, it is wise for individuals with multiple sensitivities or with sensitivity to an undetermined compound to perform pre-use open patch tests.
Acne cosmetica is not an allergic reaction but is caused by the inclusion of comedogenic substances that can be found in many cosmetic products, especially emollients and oil-based makeups. Hypoallergenic does not mean noncomedogenic. Some notable comedogenic compounds are sodium lauryl sulfate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic acid, lanolin, and cocoa butter.
Water-based, rather than oil-based, cosmetics should be used to decrease the risk of acne cosmetica in susceptible individuals. “Oil-free” cosmetics are not necessarily noncomedogenic and may contain certain comedogenic organic oils. Some soaps also contain comedogenic materials; certain “creamy” or “moisturizing” soaps should be avoided by individuals with acne.
VIII. It is Difficult to Recommend Specific Products
Except for advice to be on the lookout for adverse reactions, trial and error in combination with individual preference is about the only rational way for people with normal skin to choose among most cosmetic products.
Suggested Readings
Begoun P. Don’t go to the cosmetics counter without me, 4th ed., Tukwila, WA: Beginning Press, 1999.
Schoen LA, Lazar P. The look you like: medical answers to 400 questions on skin and hair care. New York: Marcel Dekker Inc, 1990.